Good Food in Mexico City Book Updates and New Listings

Moved (December 2007)

Pozole Doña Yola (San Ildefonso 42) p.8
has moved off the street into an upstairs courtyard at the same location

_________________________________________

Closed :

El Nivel
The oldest cantina in the city, at the corner of the Zócalo, has been closed "for remodelization", a term that in Mexico means "don't hold your breath for it to reopen". See NY Times article.

Pulqueria Los Duelistas
Pulquería La Hija de los Apaches


AO 206 - A nice concept but it didn't go.

Aguila y Sol - Still shuttered due to tax and permit shenanegans-
                         No explanations have been offered, phones go unanswered. Little hope for it re-                          opening remains.

La Terraza del Zócalo has closed -
A good alternative for a spectacular view of the Zócalo is Puro Corazón
( Monte de Piedad 1, 6th floor, on the Zocaló, near 5 de Mayo)

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Some interesting options not yet in our book:

EL CENTRO -

Restaurante San Francisco
San Ildefonso 40, Centro
5702-9590
Open Monday-Friday 9AM-6PM
$$
This is a pretty restaurant in a colonial patio is probably the only one in the city that specializes in the cuisine of Tlaxcala. Located  behind the Zócalo and very near the Museo de San Ildefonso, it is a peaceful respite from the hustle of the centro. Some unusual variations on pipian, mixiotes and cecina are on the menu as well as seasonal specialties.

Salón Victoria
Lopez 43, corner of Victoria, Centro
Tel. 5512 9305, 4340
Open Monday-Saturday 8AM-8PM
$$
This  cantina/restaurant, with old-fashioned décor, booths and service, is in the middle of the lighting district, a few blocks below the Alameda. It is a good place for roast cabrito, the house specialty. The large menu also includes unusually rich  sopa de ajo,  many typical Mexican dishes such as enchiladas, tortas and tacos and various daily specials.

Cantinas de Botanas

Cantina La Montañosa
Calle Palma, corner of Cerrada de 5 de Mayo (between 5 de Mayo & Tacuba), Centro
$
This traditional cantina, dating from 1948, serves "free" botanas, or "small" dishes to accompany the drinks, often quite filling, from 2-5. With one drink ( usually a two drink minimum for all-you-can-eat) you are offered a mouthwatering range of seafood dishes such as ceviche, avocado stuffed with tuna or Huachinango a la Veracruzana. Lunch can be eaten standing at the bar or seated in the dining room upstairs.

Other cantinas offer filling botanas at comida time; worth checking out are:

La Mascota, corner Bolivar and Mesones, Centro
El Tio Pepe, corner of Independencia and Dolores, Centro
La Puerta del Sol, Corner of Cinco de Mayo and Palma, Centro

La Autentica, corner of Alvaro Obregón and Av. Cuauhtemoc, Colonia Roma

La Colonial, Ave. Revolucion, esq Martires de la
Conquista (one block from Viaducto), colonia Tacubaya
 
Ardalio, Ave. Revolucion, esq Jose Maria Vigil, one
block from La Colonial

CONDESA  / ROMA -

El Malayo
Category: Asian
Plaza Rio de Janeiro 5, Colonia Roma
tel. 5514 7686
$$-$$$
One of the best options in La Roma in a lovingly restored art-deco space.
The meticulously prepared dishes reflect the multi-cultural cuisine of the chef who is from
Singapore, the original Asian-fusion country.

La Veracruzana - Fonda de Mariscos
Medellín 198B, corner of Chiapas, Colonia Roma
tel. 5574 0474
open daily unti 7
$
Located behind the Centro Comercial Plaza Insurgentes, this charming little spot with an outdoor patio offers the usual seafood options, i.e. ceviches, tostadas, filetes etc., but does everything
especially well and the prices are more tham reasonable.

Boca 21 Deli
Av. Amsterdam at Plaza Iztaccihuatl 36 , La Condesa
tel. 5584-8466
$
A pleasant new cafe/bar featuring Spanish-style "bocadillos" (sandwiches) and tapas.
Good for lunch or a vino and tapa...

Bistro Mosaico
Michoacán 10, Condesa
(and its branches)
Now open their doors at 7:30 AM for breakfast

La Casa del Mole Negro
Av. Insurgentes Sur 295 (between Celaya & Popocateptl)
Colonia Condesa
Metrobus: Sonora
Tel. 5564 8043
Open for comida only
$
Although the décor is dreary, this simple restaurant offers well prepared and  authentic  comida Oaxaqueña. As the name advises, mole negro is the specialty, and it is sweet and smoky and available in several different formats such as with chicken, in enchiladas, or alone with rice. Also excellent are the crisp and savory tlayudas:  a typical market dish in Oaxaca City; they are large, thin, crisply fried tortillas, buttered  with meaty tasting asiento (un-clarified pork fat – better than it sounds) and sprinkled with fresh cheese and onions. The chile Oaxaqueño relleno is a small green chile,  filled with a  savory picadillo of meat and almonds, satisfyingly rich. Another popular item is carne asada, (marinated and grilled meat). This a good place to sample the rich and varied cuisine of Oaxaca.

La Toma de Tequila
Toluca 28-C at Baja California
Metro Centro Médico (at the “Toluca” exit)
Tel. 5584 5250
Open 1PM – 8PM Daily
$-$$

This homey place specializes in the cuisine of Chihuahua, the northern state from which owner Raul Vargas  hails – his wife is from Jalisco, which explains the incongruous use of “Tequila” in the name. Set in the second floor of an old house, the cheerful red and blue tablecloths,  yellow walls, old wood floors and Northern-themed prints are warm and comforting. The menu features specialties of the region such as asados, meats prepared in a  red “Colorado” or green “pasado” sauce and served with large, fresh wheat tortillas. The sopa de tortilla is fragrant with cumin and served with chicharrón, avocado and roast chiles  as a garnish, and the frijoles norteñas are garnished with queso Chihuahua, a more pungent fresh cheese and different chiles.  The lemonade is rich and not too sweet, and deserts, such as Tequila flan are exceptional. Ask to sample their special house mezcal . No credit cards are accepted

POLANCO -

Jaso
88 Newton, Polanco
Tel. 5545 7476
Open Monday – Saturday: 2pm – 11:30pm
http://www.jaso.com.mx
$$$
A much talked about new place with a creative contemporary menu del mercado.

Biko
Presidente Masaryk 407, Polanco
Tel. 5282 2064
http://www.biko.com.mx
$$$
Young chefs Mikel Alonso and Bruno Oteiza, formerly of Tezka and trained in Arzak, a temple of Gastronomy in Northern Spain,  have opened an elegant spot called Biko, which means “couple or “duo” in Euskara, the language of Basque Spain. It features two menus, one traditional and the other "evolutionary" i.e. more creative. All the dishes we have sampled are fresh and subtly flavored; recent standouts were: Alcachofas con Almejas, the Basque classic reinterpreted: a tender artichoke heart was wrapped in a lightly spiced batter and nestled in a fresh clam shell- the reduced broth made me want to lick the plate. Also good were the traditional Pimientos Piquillos Rellenos de Bacalao, whose balance of sweet and salty was nearly perfect, a creative Caldo de Guisantes Trufado y Callo de Hacha a light pea soup perfumed with truffle oil and host to several succulent scallops swathed in cloaks of thinly cut mushroom, and the Escolar Verde Apio, a grilled white fish in a simple sauce of reduced poultry stock with a hint of celery. Less successful was a lamb with a “toque Oriental” whose un-integrated shaving of cilantro seeds did not add the intended Asian touch to the rather bland piece of meat. The service is attentive and gracious, wine list extensive and reasonable, with many unusual (for Mexico) Spanish wines listed. The tasting menu, at around $60 US or $110 with “maridaje” of wines, is highly recommended. Biko is among the best restaurants in Mexico City.

OTHER AREAS -

Casa Merlos
Victoriano Zepeda 80,  Colonia Observatorio
Tel. 5277-4360
Open Thursday – Sunday 1-4PM
$$
Although located in a somewhat dreary neighborhood east of the centro, Casa Merlos is the best place to sample the regional cuisine of Puebla. The setting is rustic and homey  (stucco walls and red tile floors) in keeping with its traditional  family-run history.  Appetizers include chalupas, (or “little boats”) a variation on the more common sopes. other worthwhile dishes are Manchamanteles (tablecloth stainers) ,a juicy stew of meat and  dried and fresh fruit, pipian, and of course, the renowned mole poblano. Casa Merlos features several seasonal festivals; in October  up to 10 different moles are offered.

Located in the southern end of the city, the largest restaurant in Mexico (if not the World!) with seating for more than 2000 people, is the ultimate Mexican experience. On weekends there are  mariachis and it seems as if half the city is there. Although the menu is large and features just about every Mexican classic in the book, the specialty is country-style barbacoa.

This lively and popular spot serves good  Poblano specialties (from the state of Puebla).
Sweet and chocolaty  mole is, of course, featured, as are rich and nutty pipianes. Sopes or a caldo de gallina make good starters, and main course can be composed of tacos of  the various guisados offered.  A satisfying accompaniment is arroz y plátanos.

Updated July 3rd, 2008